Welcome to Lloyd’s List’s blog live from the Arctic. Our technical editor Craig Eason has joined a Sovcomflot operated tanker for a journey across the Barents Sea. Follow his progress as he makes his way from Murmansk to the Varandey terminal and back again.
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Some final thoughts before I go

Waiving goodbye

Waiving goodbye

We are a few hours away from Murmansk pilot station and passing by a bleak white coastline to the south of us.

The vessel will anchor until it can go alongside an discharge its crude oil cargo. It will not load any bunker fuel this time, which could save it a few hours, so it could be away by Friday morning.

When it leaves it will get as much weather information as it can to make sure the passage is as safe as possible, even calling up the other two Sovcomflot shuttle tankers to see what conditions they are currently sailing through.

The second officers on the vessels keep an ice record to send to the charterers. It records all the differing ice conditions the ships pass through during their voyage, no doubt helping Lukoil get a better picture of the operation conditions of the region.

The vessel has been given permission from the port to enter, so now we head to the anchorage. Permission can be denied if there are submarine movements or other ships moving in and out of the port as the tanker approaches.

So what are my over riding thoughts just before I step off the ship. Firstly the climate challenges being faced by the crew and the technology can at times be insurmountable, in which case it is best to wait until it is safer to resume.

The technology onboard has been designed for the conditions, but there are still some small details that need refining, from the frozen window wipers, the poorly placed anemometer or the need to bring the Varandey support vessels off station to bunker.

Some of the problems have been solved in old fashioned seafaring fashion. A poorly placed hydraulic line or water intake line that regularly froze has been re-routed, insulated or heated. A bent railing is levered back into place when welding is simply out of the question. Even the chief officers new desk lamp on his work area to replace the original small lamp which he thought was too dim show’s the adaptability of the crew to the conditions.

But there are still challenges. I was surprised that the iridium phone cut out despite the claims of pole to pole coverage. The Inmarsat Fleet 77 signal was also inconsistent, but that was not too surprising. But if trade is set to increase in the region, particularly the northern sea routes, then this issue desperately needs to be addressed.

The two azipods and three Wärtsilä engines on the vessel provide fantastic engine versatility for the conditions, but fuel consumption can be extremely high in the worst conditions. It was amusing to be told by one of the engineers that the “ABB azipods are indestructible, that is why we have four spare blades on deck.”

Despite having the azipods the vessel is not double acting, meaning it can not go astern as effectively as effectively as a truly double acting tanker. This is partly due to the ship’s skeg which helps it maintain stability in the ice. The is also huge blue funnel obscuring part of the view as well.

But my respect goes to the crew of the ship who have to endure sub zero temperatures for a large part of their work time. When it is unsafe to be on deck, they are not there, but otherwise there is always some maintenance or repair work to be done.

The accommodation is warm enough for them to walk about and relax in short and t-shirts, but outside the temperature can be lethal. In January it can get to -40 degrees, even now as most of Europe looks for signs of spring the temperature can reach -25 degrees. The ice will be at its thickest next month due to compression and the sea temperatures remaining below zero.

I would like to thank Captain Vasily Ermatov, his officers and crew for the trip on the ship, and the insights I hope I have been able to share of the operations and life in the Arctic. The crew have two or three more round trips to go before they have ten weeks of leave. Only for Captain Ermatov, he may be spending a large part of that on dynamic positioning training courses rather than at home.

Once I am back at work, I’ll be writing a full feature on the ship, the developing arctic trades and the developments in the northern sea route in Lloyd’s List next week.

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Murmansk beckons

The Kapitan Gotsky

After a night wallowing in the broken ice we set off again towards Murmansk.

The weather is better and the captain has been told by the agent that the Belakoneka, the VLCC storage vessel, will be able to take our cargo tomorrow after 1600 when an export aframax will have left for Western Europe. We are aiming to be at the pilot station by that time tomorrow, where my voyage in the Arctic will come to an end.

As we cross north of the entrance to the White Sea the broken ice floe is littered with thicker ice, as well as brown ice.

This apparently is brackish or freshwater and therefore more compact. When solid it is more difficult to pass through than the flatter ice formed on top of the sub-zero sea water.

One or two of the larger chunks of ice are occupied by the occasional walrus that merely raise a tired head to watch us go by.

I am, still, the walrus

I am, still, the walrus

The crew are out on deck again in force chipping away the ice from the deck, mainly on top of the ballast tanks as the heat from the crude oil cargo has helped melt anything frozen above it.

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Fuelling the crew

Our ship's stewardess - Svetlana Kuznetsova

Our ship's stewardess - Svetlana Kuznetsova

Working in these conditions requires a serious amount of energy, which is provided twice a day from the galley.

The crew and officer meals are prepared by the cook, Igor, with the help of the stewardess, Svetlana. Between them they prepare about 50 meals a day, every day for the ten week tour. The food is what I would call wholesome. It is on one level tasty but also basic and straightforward. Ideal to fuel 25 men who are out working in the arctic conditions.

The days start with a breakfast of porridge, although it was replaced today with a plate of fried eggs and bacon. There’s a soup made each day, and available for lunch and dinner; a thick broth of vegetable with meat, or fish. This could be a meal in itself. Though there is then a second plate. This could be a lamb shank with rice, a roasted pepper stuffed with rice and mince, or a casserole with bulgur or potato. My sensitive English palette though drew the line when I was served braised ox-tongue with mashed potato. The mashed potato was divine.

Every meal includes a jug of what I was told was dried fruit, mainly apple, compot. Though to me it tasted more like prune juice.

Today’s lunch was a bean and vegetable soup followed by fried halibut with prawn and cucumber salad.

The cook - Igor Solovco

The cook - Igor Solovco

There’s no weight watchers here. This is food for a working ship, not food for lengthy socialising over. Meal times in the officer mess are short and functional. They come in, eat, talk a bit and then leave, many of them chewing raw onion and garlic with their soup, and eating from the ever present basket of bread. The raw garlic and onion is another thing I quietly declined to indulge in, but the enjoyment of the crew makes me wonder if I am missing something.
If you have a multi million pound asset to run, it pays to fuel the humans that have the arduous job of running it.

The galley is typical of a ship’s galley. Everything is bolted down, the frier is levered to safely pour food out, the pans are secured on an industrial stove and large work areas are made of stainless steel. The tiled floor can be hosed clean every day and down a set of stairs is a well stocker cold provision room.

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Playing the waiting game

We are now floating in some thick, but broken ice. The wind is howling around us and we are drifting eastwards, the way we came, at about 2 knots. The two main generators have been switched off, with the third smaller one now being used to power a single azipod propeller to give us any power we need to keep the wind in the right quarter and stop us rolling.

If we head on towards Murmansk the vessel will only have to sit at an anchorage in the storm force winds. With other vessels in the anchorage and a limited amount of space for the vessel to swing, the only option is to wait out at sea until the weather improves. We could be here for a day and a half now. It’s amazing how the weather conditions change so suddenly in this region. One day we have golden sunsets, then the next the weather closes in. Yesterday it was reasonably sunny and calm again while we are in the ice, and now we are sheltering on the edge of it waiting for a low pressure system to blow itself by.

Ice rolling on deck can  be dangerous

The vessel’s satellite derived position is marked on the ecdis. In region where we are currently drifting – still at about two knots eastward – there is a clear distinction between two different charts on the chart as a peninsula of land about 20 nm south of us is repeated on the westerly chart.

The captain likes this C-map ecdis despite this. One of the features he said he could see in the future is the integration of the ice chart from the arctic institute into the ecdis picture. He believes this is already available for some systems that are available. One of the systems he has used in the past and found very easy to use was from Russian electronics firm Transas.

This I think would enable the bridge team to have all the data at their finger tips, but there could be s danger of over complicating the technology. I have never worked with an ecdis system as a second officer, but have used the earlier raster systems, so trying to navigate my way around the JRC system with the Jeppesen C-Map data was confusing. However I found some of the data hard to read, and the inability for two charts to match, or adjoin, each other means I could not be sure of our position. However the crew here have Russian Hydrographic charts that are the main navigation aids, not the ecdis, which has a sign over it stating it is for reference purposes only.

However I do think it amusing that I found the second officer Alexander correcting the chart for the approaches to Liverpool yesterday afternoon after his watch. It seems an unlikely port for the ship to call at, but then, one never knows and if the ship is inspected and the corrections for all the paper charts on board are not up to date, then the ship could be detained in port until they are. So the paper charts corrections will need to be done unless the ship has two completely independent ecdis systems.

If all ships have to be ecdis compliant by 2018, will the northern sea route have to be more properly surveyed and mapped by then for it to be ‘opened up’?

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Following the path home

Reverse!

The second officer Alexander has managed to find our old track through the ice a few days ago. It looks like a canal and means the ship can save time and fuel as it follows the channel. In some places it has widened to twice the width of the ship, and in others has shrunken to almost nothing. But for four hours it offers smooth sailing as the vessel does not need to shudder its way through the ice fields.

We have seen another three walruses (or is it walri or just walrus?) today, all basking in the weak arctic sun.

Making friends with the locals

Even though it is Sunday, the crew work like a normal day. There’s no nipping off home for a family lunch or to support a favourite football team. This is ten weeks solid work in some of the harshest conditions. However I gather their lost time is made up for by being added to their leave entitlements, so for every day on the ship, they have one at home.

I am impressed with the level of English of the ships officers. I was fearful of being on a ship where no one spoke good English. This is not the case. Even the Lukoil loading master and pilot at Varandey were quite fluent having both been ship captains in the past.

All the crew on Kapitan Gotsky

We emerged from the thick ice in to more clumpy floating bergs at about 0500 this morning. The ships movement changed. In the ice the ship would shudder and shake as the azipods propellers drove it through thicker patches of ice and the occasional ridge – a bit like that bus on a very bad road. Now in the more open water the swell from the low pressure centre to the North West is effecting us and we rolled more, and the shuddering is due to the bow contracting a swell wave.

The downside of the this weather is evident on deck. We have a freeboard of only a few meters now, so if a wave does roll onto deck it brings with it huge boulders of ice, some bigger and heavier than a human. They could easily damage the deck structures if they roll about too much.

The weather forecast has worsened and is for 60 knot winds and a significant wave height of 7.5 m for the 150 nm from the edge of the ice and Kola Bay, where Murmansk is situated. If we push through the storm we could be there tomorrow lunch time.

However as the Belokamenka, the large tanker used as floating storage, is not expecting us until the end of the week, the captain opts to turn the ship around and go back into the ice for a day rather than go to the anchorage and risk the vessel in the bad weather. We will shelter in the ice floes until the worst of the weather has passed, our estimated arrival back in Murmansk is now around mid day March 10.

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Time for a turn around the ice

Captain Ermakov edges the tanker closer to the Varandey terminal

The tide has swung Kapitan Gotsky round the terminal, which has had to swivel to follow us. Prior to the tide turning a decision was made on the bridge which way the vessel would turn to give the icebreaker a chance to move up and down to ensure the ice was broken up. If the tanker began to turn while there were thick ice sheets it could easily change its position and direction in relation to the foirot and become misaligned. With only a limited amount of deviation allowed and a limit on the hawser tension it is essential to get the operation right otherwise cargo loading has to stop.

If the turn goes really badly due to too much thick ice then the vessel could have to move off the terminal and wait for sheet of ice to pass by.

The weather has worsened. The temperature has dropped to about minus 20 and the wind is picking up driving the hard snow across the deck. One of the crew is always out on freezing deck as a safety precaution. Aleksey, the cargo chief officer is still behind the loading console monitoring the cargo tank levels as well as discharging the ballast water.

He is very happy with the system on the Kapitan Gotsky, he said. The ballast pumps work extremely well, and the sripping pumps which are used to take out the very last drops of water form the tanks are remarkably efficient he said.

He is also happy that the loading valves for the cargo tanks can be opened and closed as much or as little as he likes. The majority of other systems he has used only allowed the valves to be either fully opened or fully closed from the cargo control console. By being able to open the valves partially he can control the loading sequence better. This gives far more control when topping off the tanks to ensure the ship loads as much as it possibly can, but no more.

At 0300 the cargo operations were finished and the amount of cargo has been verified by the loading master and the Aleksey. The loading hose is disconnected and pulled up to the foirot gantry.

The crew were mustered and the ship is ready to leave. It then takes half an hour to move the one nautical mile through a patch of thick ice. Captain Ermakov is sure that had that ice reached us the icebreaker would have had difficulties and we would have been forced to stop cargo operations and move off the terminal.
As the day breaks it reveals itself to be a sunny, if somewhat cold, Sunday. The captain has been able to get a satellite picture from the loading master who has an internet connection.

sat image

This is a fascinating picture of the ice and weather conditions in the region. It also shows the year round ice in the north Barents Sea, the sea ice that we are going through and the centre of low pressure that will impact our progress when we emerge from the ice.

It also shows the much thicker ice to the east of the Kara Gate, the gap south of the long sabre curved Novaya Zemlaya. The ice situation in this picture will stay like this for possibly another 6 weeks before the ice goes.

The satellite picture has helped the captain decide his route back to Murmansk. As the low pressure entre will impact the wind direction, which will in turn impact where the ice moves and how it gets compressed, he has opted to go to the north of Kolguev Island and through areas where he believes the ice will remain thinner. The areas of thinner ice can be seen on the satellite picture helping to confirm his decision. However he is not relying on this picture alone. Other than the twenty years experience, he also has the ice radar, the map from the arctic institute and the weather report from AWT.

One of the best ideas would be to provide ships in the far north with this satellite picture though on a daily basis, allowing their GPS position and planned route to be transposed onto it. This, coupled with wind, tide and current information could be a great help, especially given the detail that can be achieved with satellite imagery these days.

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The berthing operation. They make it look so easy.

The Kapitain Gotsky approaches the Varandey terminal

10.45
The pilot and the loading master come aboard from the Toboy and we begin the 4nm approach to the platform. Varandey has gone on ahead to break the ice.

On the bridge the pilot and captain discuss the approach and berthing procedure while the loading master and chief officer Aleksy Paramonov talk about the cargo.

With the ice moving from the west and a potential one knot tidal flow, the approach needs to be done carefully. It would be good to connect first time and be able to get the loading completed before any bad weather reaches the region. A unique GPS system helps the bridge team manoeuvre towards the platform gantry.

11.05
Kapitan Gotsky is 3km from the platform and due west. There is constant ice, but it is not thick. The vessel makes six knots with the icebreaker moving backwards and forwards ahead.

11.10
The helm is switched to the azipod controls allowing Captain Ermakov to control each of the two azipods individually.

11.20
The ship is now 3km from the foirot and Aleksey and three of the crew go out an onto the Forecastle. It is bitterly cold out side so they are wrapped up as they could be stood there for a while. They make the forecastle ready to receive the lines from the terminal. Second officer Alexander Ignatev goes onto the poop to get a heaving line and emergency towing line ready. If anything goes wrong and the ship loses power, he has seconds to get the line onto the Toboy which is hovering close to the stern so it can tow us to safety.

11.40
The vessel is less than 100 m from the terminal. The approach seems to have been extremely smooth. The captain and pilot are constantly chatting, the latter walking from bridge wing to bridge wing to check the ship’s relative position to the terminal A line is wound down from the terminal and taken onboard the ship, it brings onboard a mooring line and it in turn brings onboard the heavy hawser.

11.55

The chain stopper that secures the bow mooring hawser

The chain stopper is secured and locked. It really does look very easy. That’s the first and second of the ten green lights achieved to be able to start loading. The hose end is now lowered from the platform gantry, while a wire line ahead of it is winched onboard through the bow loading area. Some of the crew use forked rods to ensure it passes over the top of the hose coupling. The top of the terminal swivels to align the hose better with the coupling. When the hose end comes onboard it is given a quick wipe clean before being quickly docked and the coupler closed. That’s the third and fourth green lights achieved.

1210
The inboard cargo valve is opened and then the coupler valve. The cargo pressure is normal and other cargo valves opened. Finally the double telemetric systems are verified and the hydraulics checked before the final green lights are given.

It appears the task of berthing has taken barely half an hour. However we have light winds, a weak tide and broken ice. The conditions are ideal. The ship only has to move slightly for it to be out of alignment with the terminal for operations to stop. The hawser that is holding the ship to the terminal has to be maintained within certain tension parameters. Too high or too low and there are dangers, so operations will stop.

Loading will take about 14 hours, so we could be away from here at 0200 on Sunday morning. The crew will have little rest. For the whole time the ship is at the terminal one of the officers will have his hand on the azipod controls, making the delicate manoeuvres to keep it in position while the cargo is loaded. They work in pairs, six hours on and six hours off until the job is done. If the weather gets worse, then they will be doing it for as long as it is needed to load the cargo. This is no lazy weekend.

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Seeing the light despite a busted flush

seeing the lights

If I had not broken my toilet last night, I never would have seen the Northern Lights.

The toilet system on board is a vacuum type that most people would have seen on an airplane. It is noisy and sensitive. Mine decided it would remain on the flush action, resulting in the sound of a banshee in the small cabin bathroom and me having to go meekly to the bridge to explain.

Anton, the ever smiling 4th engineer came and fixed it, saying that it happens occasionally with this system. While this was going on I had a call from the bridge to say that the Northern Lights could be seen.

It was nothing like the photographs I have seen on the advertising brochures for those arctic cruises. Firstly it was a cloudy white, with perhaps a hint of blue or green occasionally. It looked more like the light pollution from a huge city, hidden over the northern horizon, albeit one that had a collective dimmer switch it kept turning up and down.

Now that's a view

It did at one point take a more definite shape and could be seen to be moving, but it was hardly dancing, a word I have often heard to describe the phenomenon. However it was a clear night with the stars out,a couple of planets, and I could have sworn I saw a shooting star passing through the northern lights.

However things were hidden somewhat by the huge searchlights the Kapitan Gotsky, and the Toboy behind it, were using to look for ice ridges.

Both vessels are now stopped 4 miles from the Varandey foirot – it stands for fixed offshore ice resistant oil terminal – awaiting the arrival of the icebreaker Varandey, which is now visible on the horizon. The chief officer tells me will be here at about 1000. IN the 4 miles between us and the foirot there is thick ice which the captain believes is thick and not moving. The Varandey is adept at moving around and breaking the ice up, perhaps this is where we will need its services.

The two chief officers (Mikael the navigation mate and Alexy the cargo mate) are taking the opportunity to test the emergency shutdown and release systems of the bow loading system which will be used later today to load our cargo.

Using the Greenline monitor, and controlling the valves they check the release time of the coupler claws that will hold the loading hose and the valve inside the coupler that pushes out and into the loading hose to open the system ready for receiving cargo.

They also test the accumulator system The bow loading arrangement has three shutdown systems. There is the hydraulic release, there is an accumulator which is effectively a reserve of hydraulic oil kept under pressure so that if the normal valve hydraukics fail then a shut down can be achieved using this set up. Finally there is a manual pump in the forecastle.

There are three possible emergency shut down scenarios. Stop cargo, stop cargo and release the loading hose, and the last one also includes to release the mooring line to free the vessel from the platform.

The crew are also summoned to the bridge to have a preload safety briefing. It happens before every loading according to the cargo mate Alexy, despite the vast experience of the crew.

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Alarms, a walrus and more ice

The cargo chief officer has been testing all the high level alarms in the cargo tanks this afternoon. The Varandey crude is loaded into the five pairs of tanks as well as the two slop tanks. He is testing the high level alarms in each one, which sounds at 95% and the very high level which sound at 97%. He told me that he will load each tank to 96.5% of its maximum capacity. One of the crew members has the unhappy task of wandering around the deck setting all 24 alarms off.

When we get to Varandey this will be the 7th cargo of the year. The intention is to load 69,200 cu m of crude oil. The first tanks the cargo mate will load will be the smaller slop tanks at a rate of no more than 1,000 cu m/hr, before loading the cargo tanks at 7,800 cu m/hr, albeit in a staggered fashion to remove the risks of stressing the vessel and allowing them to be topped off individually.

The finishing sequence will be 5, 2, 4 and finally 1 and 3 wing tanks, with the load rate dropping down to about 2,000 cu m/hr at the end. If the anticipated bad weather does not reach us the operation should be finished in 18 hours. If the bad weather hits, or the ice becomes un manageable, it could mean we have to stop loading and even move off the loading terminal.

As the loading is done, the mate will also discharge the ballast water. The tanks can be heated, although he said he prefers not to. The seawater in the tanks is currently at about zero degrees, but will not freeze due to it being salt water and having the relatively warmer cargo tanks beside them.

We saw a walrus this afternoon. Quite a thrill. It seemed completely oblivious to a huge steel structure shuddering its way towards it, crushing up all the ice. It only rolled away and under the water when the bow was a few hundred meters away from it.

I am the walrus

I have just had a look at the weather prognosis the ship receives from Applied Weather Technology’s Bonvoyage service. It is the prediction for Monday evening when we should be on our way back to Murmansk. The low pressure beside Svalbard is going to have a big impact in pushing the ice east. The ice is he cream colour, although it has not been extended up to the North pole.

Ice cream

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207 miles to Varandey

We are heading due south, directly towards Kilguev Island which is now visible on the horizon as a dirty line between the white ice and pale blue sky. It is not the course that will take us directly to Varandey, but towards the thinner ice. We are puddle hopping; going from one stretch of open water to another, seeking out channels and thinner ice or the nilas ice, and trying to avoid the ridges with the help of the ice radar.

The ice radar

We will be turning to port soon as we need to head in a more easterly direction. The clicking of the gyro compass repeaters on the bridge wings give a hint of the rate of turn.

A more up to date ice chart from the Russian Arctic Institute has come through. It shows more lighter ice to the north near the long curve of Novaya Zemlya.

The weather remains favourable, though getting a bit colder, minus 12 degrees, and the ice however is gradually getting thicker.

The supply vessel is still behind us, sometimes coming closer if the ice gets thicker, sometimes a little further away. The navigation officers constantly talking to each other over the VHF, especially if we hit a thick patch and have to move astern before changing direction.

It strikes me that the refuelling of the two vessels needed at the Varandey terminal has cost the operations two days and is inefficient. I can understand why a small bunker vessel, even if ice classed, does not want to come into the thick ice unescorted.

Had the two vessels not had to leave their station and steam 250nm to meet the bunker vessel, the Kapitan Gotsky could have loaded a cargo and be on it way back to Murmansk by now. Could these tankers picking up the cargo be used to take the bunker oil from Murmansk to Varandey for the safety vessels?

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